Valle Grande Passport II

This was my final Passport II hike of the 16 hikes in the booklet. It was a chilly, windy day. There were teeny snowflakes nestled on wild strawberry leaves but no real snow on the trail. The real snow, a spring snowfall, came the next day, May 19, in Los Alamos. The trees along the Valle Grande Trail look like a forest waiting to fall and many, some giants, have accepted the invitation already. The trees burned in the 2011 Las Conchas fire. On my way downhill, I was amazed to meet two tree fellers coming up. I had heard their chainsaws. They cleared deadfall off the trail all the way to the bottom. I thanked them. At the meadow, there was still one small tree across the trail which could easily be gotten around.

As always, if you gaze across the Valle Grande of the Valles Caldera National Preserve, you will see Redondo in repose. Seen here through a curtain of burnt timber, framed by the colors of earth and sky.

South Mountain Passport II

To get the South Mountain Passport to the Pajarito Plateau II rubbing, I took an unconventional approach. I had read that you should call the Valles Caldera National Preserve Visitor Center ahead of time to see if South Mountain was open but I didn't want to do that nor did I want to drive my sedan on the Preserve's gravel roads. So, on Mother's Day, I drove to the Preserve entrance, parked to the side, outside the gate, completely out of the way, hung my national park pass from my rear-view mirror and started walking in on the entrance road to the Visitor Center. The entrance road is 2 miles one-way. At the Visitor Center, I told the ranger what I hoped to do, asked if that was all right and happily, got the OK to proceed. My plan was to walk from the Visitor Center just to the South Mountain trailhead, get the rubbing in my Passport II and walk back out to my car for an 8 mile round-trip hike.

East Fork of the Jemez River as seen along the entrance road. The orangish streamside vegetation looks like willows bundled together to keep the stream banks from eroding. I could see little ties holding the bundles in place. Whatever they are, they are picturesque! The pointy mountain, background left, is Las Conchas Peak, and then to the right of that is Los Griegos (and maybe that's Cerro Pelado in between the two). The green mountain, nearer and on the right, is a shoulder of South Mountain.

Victory! The rubbing plate is on the upright log below the South Mountain sign. I was almost ready to concede that I would never reach the actual trailhead. I'm glad I didn't give up. It's very green and pretty here. From the Visitor Center, I walked probably a mile on a graveled road to the cabin area where I went left onto a dirt road closed to vehicles. I must have followed that at least another mile to this trailhead. The last mile was pretty - in a valley pass between South Mountain and Redondo Peak - but seemed so long because I didn't know for sure I was following the correct road. Lots of little streamlets come down from Redondo and cross the road. Eventually, the road split. To the right, a road continued north and to the left, the road started uphill to South Mountain.

A gigantic stump next to a baby tree (spruce?), near the South Mountain sign. Would make a decent bench without the piece of rebar poking up in the middle!

Upper Crossing Trail Passport II

Second week of May, took Upper Crossing Trail, in Bandelier National Monument, to Rito de los Frijoles in Frijoles Canyon and then retraced my steps back. The stream, clouds, blue skies, burnt trees, new spring growth all looked so pretty. Frijoles Canyon was badly burnt in the 2000 Cerro Grande fire and then again in the 2011 Las Conchas fire. I've heard the trail down canyon to Bandelier Headquarters is mostly restored now except for a section in the "Narrows". This used to be the quintessential spring, summer and fall hike for groups I hiked with. There were trees and ferns and lots of greenery all along the trail. There were also stinging nettles, poison ivy and ticks! The Lemon Lot group would have lunch along the creek, always at the same convenient stopping place each year. I haven't hiked the canyon since the fires. I'm long overdue. There used to be well-placed stones to step across the stream and even some bridges but those all washed away.

On top of the wilderness sign is a rubbing plate for the Pajarito Environmental Education Center's Passport to the Pajarito Plateau II. This is along the trail, just before it goes downhill into Frijoles Canyon.

Mitchell Trail Loop Passport II

Another Pajarito Environmental Education Center Passport II hike. Didn't take a photo of the passport post but did take a plate rubbing  for my Passport II book. It was an overcast day. This is the ridgetop section of the loop and the flower here is probably Perky Sue. The background ridge is the one that travels west from LA/Burnt Mountain. The healthy confiers that speckle the hillside were planted by volunteers after the 2000 Cerro Grande fire. The Mitchell Trail Loop starts from the Mitchell Trail trailhead on Arizona Street. Part goes through Rendija Canyon. Alone in that canyon, I enthusiastically rang my homemade bear bells and yodeled or, rather, fake yodeled, "Yo duh lady who!" All self-respecting bruins immediately vacated the area. The rain didn't start until I got back to my car. As I sat in the car, eating lunch, a man and woman put on their rain gear and started up the trail.

Green and Enchanting - Graduation Canyon

End of April, 2017:

Pajarito Environmental Education Center Passport II post at Graduation Canyon point overlook.

When I saw this, I thought how much my 4 year old grandson would enjoy it. To him, it would be huge forest! Graduation Canyon is a tiny, green canyon very close to the heart of downtown Los Alamos, accessed either from East Park/Los Alamos Mesa Trail or from Pine Street Playlot.

I hadn't been here for a long time so had forgotten the towering rock formations. Hidden up above are "mansions" on Rim Road. Understand that my definition of a mansion is colored by the fact that I live in a 50 year old government built Group 18 house.

A man-made wonder reposes in the canyon. Wonder the year, make and model? Doesn't look driveable!

Clematis

A very new-looking bridge!

Fruit tree in blossom along Graduation Canyon creek.

Cliffs of Graduation Canyon point overlook. Looking north.

Pipeline-Perimeter Off-Trail

When you walk up Pipeline Road in Los Alamos, NM, starting from Quemazon and Torreon in Quemazon Community, after about a mile you come to a saddle that separates the north Pueblo Canyon drainage from the south and a ridge that trends south from the saddle. Follow the ridge and at first there's a distinct trail which soon ends at the top of a  rough, steep downhill to the Perimeter Trail on the hillside above Quemazon Community.
I've always wondered what happens if you continue further south on the ridge, into the trailless Cerro Grande burn area. I usually quash these off-trail explores with inner warnings to not go it alone because there could be mountain lions, bears, coyotes, rabid bunnies, I could break ankle. Or, I chide that I really need to get back home soon because there are chores to do. But this time, the end of March, I took the bait and diverted from an easy, familiar downhill on Pipeline Road to instead follow the ridge into the burn area to see what I could see.  Pipeline Road is the road cut on the mountainside.

These young trees were planted by volunteers after the 2000 Cerro Grande wildfire. It's wonderful how much they have grown since then! To avoid falling, I walked very slowly over all the downed wood from the forest here before the fire. I followed wherever it seemed most open and least full of tripping hazards. Purposely placed rocks here and there showed that others had been here too.

Looking across a south branch of Pueblo Canyon toward Pajarito Mountain, a veritable forest is growing back. The green patch, lower left, is kinnikinnick. It was still early spring and I saw very few flowers.

I would have chosen it to be less windy for my walk here.  Some of the snags are so fearsomely massive that I waited until the wind stopped gusting  to walk by. I knew this to be a largely ineffectual strategy since snags fall when and where they want but it made me feel better! On the way downhill, I stuck close to Pueblo Canyon and eventually intersected the Perimeter Trail which I followed back to my car.

One of many "last looks" back to appreciate the scenery. The cairn was built by someone before me. Even though walking over and around all the obstacles made for very slow travel and the wind speeds got too high, this area has a raw, unforgettable beauty. And even though the forests that used to thickly cover the Jemez mountains west of town are gone forever in my lifetime, I feel joy in having traveled through this transformed landscape. The thick forests before the wildfire were mysterious because in them, I couldn't always see where I was. The off-trail sections of the Cerro Grande burn area beckon me all the time but mostly remain mysterious because I'm less likely to be patient enough to walk within. Trails are, of course, easier! When I do go there, though, it is worth it.

Ad Hoc Hikers: American Spring Road/Forest Road 181

The Ad Hoc Hikers decided to check out American Spring Road/Forest Road 181 this morning. We were pushing the season as there was still some snow on the road. The hikers thought it would be more dried out and it is somewhat in places. Overall, though, it's mostly a mix of snow, ice and mud. We were lucky to go early (the group starts at 8:30 am) before everything thawed.

The group gamely went as far as the turnoff to Red-Tailed Hawk Point where they turned back. I continued to the meadow near where the road swings south and downhill to West Jemez Road. I avoided the muddiest portions by going off the road onto a little trail that goes over to one of the broken down elk exclosures (left over from after the 2000 Cerro Grande Fire) and then parallels Forest Road 181 almost over to the meadow. This avoided three mini-lake-sized puddles. The portion of the forest road that faces south has terrible drainage problems, all made worse by the vehicles that drive in when the road is snow-covered. Too bad someone doesn't discover a threatened species so the road can be closed for "resource protection" from January to April like Dome Road is. The deep tire ruts in the mud only worsen the drainage. I saw today where a vehicle had pulled off onto the grassy shoulder and created deep ruts which now direct runoff into one of the mini-lake-sized puddles.

On a happier note, Armstead Spring is gushing like crazy - lots of water running out of the old, rusty water pipes!

Burnt Mesa Windy Day

Thursday's hike with the Ad Hoc group was on Burnt Mesa. The trail was nicely dried out. I have to admit that even though I don't like tripping over the logs embedded across the trail at frequent intervals, they do a superb job of keeping the trail from getting cupped.  Walking on a flat trail surface instead of in a ditch is so much easier.

It was a very windy day - blowing at our back on the way out. When the group decided to turn around about 1 1/2 miles in, they realized the wind would be in their face. I continued another mile or so to the trail's end where you can look over into Frijoles Canyon and see the Long Trail in Bandelier National Monument. It was truly a hat-brim-flipping wind on the return journey.  I saw three other hikers. Bet they also had read on the Los Alamos Trails Facebook page that the Burnt Mesa Trail was in fine condition and we all went for it!

San Miguel Mountains, which include Boundary Peak and St. Peter's Dome, from Burnt Mesa.

Snowy, south side of Pajarito Mountain from Burnt Mesa Trail.

Ancho Springs Trail to Red Dot

Group hiked Ancho Springs Trail to Red Dot (via River Trail) on Wednesday. It's a 7.5 mile, one-way hike per the leader.  I thought about just hiking down to Ancho Rapids and right back up because I wasn't sure of my ability to keep up with the group on the full hike but when we got to the River Trail turnoff, I decided to go for the full hike. Several times the group stopped to look at petroglyphs but I continued on so I wouldn't fall too far behind. When they stopped for lunch, I continued, eating my LaraBars while walking. The trail to follow was clear and the group always caught up with me.

On the group's last petroglyph stop, near the bottom of the Red Dot Trail, I and some others started up the very steep Red Dot. I had a brief, scary spell of "stupid feet" near the top - where your feet get "tangled-up" with a not-very brilliant mind of their own. I waited a little at the top for a ride back to the Powerline Point/Ancho Springs Trailhead where my car was. Really grateful for the ride and the chance to do this great hike. The trail is in wonderful condition. Someone has "white-dotted" the River Trail from the turnoff in Ancho Canyon to where the trail crosses Water Canyon. Guess white dots are appropriate since it's in White Rock Canyon.

A slice of the Rio Grande River, probably not too distant from the River Trail turnoff.

Where the River Trail crosses Water Canyon, with wonderful, columnar basalt cliffs.

Beanfield Mesa

On walk this morning with the Ad Hoc Hikers. This is Beanfield Mesa. We had just walked on the Pajarito Trail beneath those picturesque cliffs, far below Beanfield's rim.

Ponderosa Campground-Frijoles Canyon

Wednesday, on Upper Crossing Trail, starting from Ponderosa Campground, looking upward at cleft in Apache Spring Mesa (my made-up name). Five fast hikers are ahead of me. They have a big task - go all the way to Bandelier Headquarters in Frijoles Canyon. Mine is only to amble down into Frijoles Canyon and right back up.

And amble I did, stopping to look at these pretty, snowy woods. The trail was snow-covered in places and trending to frozen mud in others.

Alas, whilst in Frijoles Canyon, I took no photos but saw these quirky turkey tracks on the mesa top while walking back. These are apparently very hardy turkeys as their tracks wandered everywhere! Oh, digress for a moment back to Frijoles Canyon: At the second crossing of the Rito de los Frijoles, for one brief, wild moment, I envisioned continuing downstream to Bandelier Headquarters and hitching a ride back to Ponderosa Campground but instead, lazily walked back up to the mesa top. The Rito, though, was running finely after our Monday snowfall.

Red Dot to River Trail to Water Canyon Crossing

So happy to have gone down the Red Dot Trail today with the Wednesday group! I'm the slowest on that steep, rocky downhill but I made it intact to the bottom. The group planned to look at petroglyphs along the Rio but I was mainly interested in going further downstream on the River Trail so I checked out of the hike. I walked as far as the Water Canyon crossing of the River Trail. I especially enjoyed the section just before and above the Rio Grande. The Rio is looking beautiful! On the way back, I ran into the group. They asked what was ahead and I told them about the beautiful section above the Rio which encouraged them to keep going. I kept going too, back along the River Trail and then up the tough "stair climb" on the Red Dot and didn't eat lunch until I was back at the car. Lots of beautiful views of the Sangres and the Rio sustained me on the way up. Every year I tell myself that this will be the last year I go down the Red Dot. I am so painfully slow on the downhill, carefully planting my feet, trying not to torque my knees. Each year, though, I can't resist and do it again!

Fall Hiking Wrap Up

Upper Frijoles XC Ski Trail, with hiking group:

End of October, Cerro Grande meadow from long, orange Upper Frijoles XC Ski Trail, Bandelier National Monument. It had lots of deadfall to step over. The Bandelier trail maintenance staff consists of one-lone-ranger so trail may not be cleared in time for cross country skiing. The short, blue Upper Frijoles XC Ski Trail was in fine condition as of late summer so maybe that will be OK for skiing.

Last of fall color seen along FR181/American Spring Road, end of October. Soon after, all the leaves flew:

Ski Hill to Pipeline Road to Guaje Ridge to Mitchell Trail, November 1, with hiking group:

Left to right, Chicoma and Caballo mountains, north from Pipeline Road overlook.

Looking northeast, down canyon, into Guaje Canyon. I think we were now on the Guaje Ridge Trail. I haven't been on the Guaje Ridge Trail for such a long time and I have missed it! Walking through the tall trees, the remnants spared by the wildfires, was enchanting. Less so were the thorny locust bushes which grow back despite volunteers' best efforts.

More or less northwest, looking up canyon into Guaje Canyon with Caballo Mountain on right. The wildfires left both live trees and charcoal sticks.

A piece of Guaje Ridge Trail in a well-toasted area. This peak is part of the unofficially named Quemazon/Rendija Mountain which is the distinctive mountain with "two peaks" seen from Los Alamos Townsite that has the very steep front with a V-shaped "bowl". It's the highest-looking one between Caballo and Pajarito mountains. Guaje Ridge Trail and Guaje Canyon are on this north side of the mountain while on its south side are Pipeline Road and Quemazon Canyon. If you study this mountain from the south at the Burnt Mesa Trailhead, the effect of the "two peaks" as seen from Los Alamos Townsite is created by two prominences that have a saddle-ridge between them. The rear one is just a little offset from the near one and thus they seem juxtaposed as double peaks from the Townsite.

Second week of November, waning days of autumn on Pajarito Mountain Ski Area jeep road:

The corner of Zero Road East and West Confusion. We all find ourselves here at some time!

A few days before Thanksgiving, FR181/American Spring Road on a drizzly Monday. We were to have a group hike but it was cancelled due to doubtfulness about weather at 7:30 am decision time:

Play of light and shadow on far hillside, beyond upper Water Canyon. Glad I got to see all the fall color here the end of October because it's all gone now!

When I was here the week before, there was a fallen log down below that someone has since, witness the sawdust, cut away from the Armstead Spring piping.

Last week, I walked here on a very windy day. As I got back, I saw this little tree fall  near my car. Then when I headed down NM 4, I had to wait a bit as firemen and policemen worked to clear away a big tree, newly felled by the wind. A small fire truck used a winch to move the tree to one side. I was amazed by the selflessness of the policemen and firemen risking life and limb in the windstorm to clear the road!

Next day, on Camp May Road Trail, aka The Route:

First snow on The Route. I liked the way the trees still had frozen snow caked on the west/northwest facing trunks.

Frijoles Canyon at Upper Crossing

Since Cerro Grande and Las Conchas wildfires, I haven't ventured very far into the fire and flood damaged portions of Frijoles Canyon. Hiking from Ponderosa Campground to Bandelier National Monument Headquarters used to be a looked-forward-to, yearly rite of passage for many local hiking groups. So, last Wednesday's hike from Ponderosa Campground was a happy chance to once again see the canyon bottom at Upper Crossing.

As we descended into Frijoles Canyon, El Rito de los Frijoles looked like a thin, silver ribbon in the sunshine. When we reached the Rito's streamside, we continued south up the impossibly steep-looking Upper Crossing Trail. Or, at least it looked impossibly steep from the Ponderosa Campground side - the optimistic swaths of trail seem to hang on for dear life, as I imagined myself doing! In reality, the trail is now in really good shape, thanks to hard work of volunteers this summer.

El Rito de los Frijoles, Frijoles Canyon, Bandelier National Monument.

From north rim of Frijoles Canyon, looking south across canyon at Upper Crossing Trail. Upper Crossing Trail flows so lengthily back and forth across the burnt hillside that the hike up is not as steep as it looks. (And that was not me you heard huffing and puffing on the way up - oh, no it wasn't!)

The Rito flows prettily, even past this raft of dead and down trees. At one time, this canyon belonged to us hikers, or so we imagined as we trekked downhill from Ponderosa Campground to Bandelier Headquarters. Now, after the fires and the floods, it's revealed itself to be very much a wild canyon and a wild Rito, yet full of beauty despite all the changes!

What a Wonderful Autumn!

Taken Sunday from Camp May Road Trail, aka The Route. It's a cairned route that you can most easily find either from The Ocean Overlook, first dirt parking area uphill on Camp May Road on left, or FR2998, dirt forest road on your left, about 2 miles uphill on Camp May Road, aka the Ski Hill Road.

My pet aspens pose prettily for their annual portrait!

Small, inviting aspen forest near FR2998.

From FR2998 area, east side of Pajarito Mountain Ski Hill in fall colors!

View from Pipe Rack

Take Cañada Bonita Trail 282 from Pajarito Mountain Ski Hill out to Pipeline Road Overlook, the one that looks into Valle de los Posos. Then, turn right and follow Pipeline Road uphill and east toward Los Alamos. The Pipe Rack is noted on the Los Alamos Sky Terrain Map. I don't know the story other than it's a leftover, unused piece of pipe elevated on a rack. Since it appears I won't be hiking Pipeline Road to the ski hill or Rosie's Point/Guaje Canyon Overlook this autumn, the Pipe Rack hike was an enjoyable substitute

Looking south toward the ski hill from Pipe Rack meadow.

East-looking at Quemazon/Rendija Mountain. The soaring bird was a happy accident!

Our Burnt Mountains Aflame with Fall Color

Yesterday, parked at red gate off Camp May Road, took Oxbow Road up, then over to Evershine Ridge to top of Upper Pajarito Canyon Trail on Pajarito Mountain. Walked short distance down trail to get aspen color photos.

Upper Pajarito Canyon, San Miguel Mountains, from southeastern edge of Pajarito Mountain.

Red aspen leaves at Zero Road East corner. Took this road back down to Oxbow and back to car.